Making the sauce for dan dan noodles is exceedingly simple once you’ve got the basic ingredients in your pantry. It’s just a matter of mixing them in the right proportions. Soy sauce forms the base, while Chinkiang black vinegar lends its characteristic acidity—it has a sweet, almost balsamic vinegar-esque aroma to it, though not quite as syrupy as that. Fermented broad bean chili paste comes in many forms throughout China or can be purchased online. Chili oil is a given, and while it’s best (and remarkably easy!) to make at home, there are a number of good options available at any decent Chinese market. Look for the kind which has actual chile, garlic, and ginger debris in the bottom of the jar, not the completely clear kind you see in easy-pour bottles. That debris is where the magic is at.
“The one wine in the world that tastes good with most Asian food: German Riesling. If you have spice, there’s no better foil than a little bit of sugar. (I try to match the sugar with the spice—if you like it 4-star, get thee to an Auslese. The rest of us reasonable 2 star people will enjoy our Kabinett and Spatlese.) If you have sweeter dishes, try to get a Riesling that is just a tad sweeter than the dish in question. Even if the preparations are a bit simpler, there is often a salt component enhancing flavors. Generally stated, sweeter wines will cancel out the perception of salt without negating its positive effect on a dish. Consequently, the salt will also diminish the perception of sweetness in the wine, making everything just plain taste better. And if someone at the table says something snarky about sweet Rieslings, just flip it and order a Prosecco or slightly sweet Vouvray or Gewürztraminer—anything on the ‘helpful side of dry’.”— Chris Horn, Purple Cafe (Bellevue/Seattle)
“General rule is that if the dish is hot and/or salty then find something with a little sweetness to extinguish the burn and flow with the dish. Riesling and off-dry Chenin Blanc are your wingmen. Wines with serious tannins, on the other hand, are your worst nightmare. For me this would be angry chimpanzees and big reds like Cabernet Sauvignon with spicy dishes. The spiciness of the dish is amplified to the nth degree and your mouth will be en fuego. For Peking duck, think Pinot Noir form the New world or riper-vintage old world. California Pinot Noirs with finesse like Eric/Kent, Ghostwriter and Littorai. And if you want something from Burgundy then look for the 2009 vintage. This was a warmer vintage and the wines show a bit more voluptuousness. Baby got back! For cumin lamb? I like Zinfandel with lamb or of you want to get all fancy pants then Greek reds work as well. For a Zinfandel find one that has a bit of elegance to it—my favorites would be Scholium Project “Arrows of Apollo” Zinfandel. For the Greek wine try Skouras St. George.”— Josiah Baldivino, Michael Mina (San Francisco)
Here’s another recipe in my quest to take the cute and cuddly animals out of all of my favorite foods in a no-BS, as-delicious-as-the-real-thing, good-enough-for-anyone kind of way. I’m particularly happy with this one, which makes sense, as it’s a logical extension of my vegan mapo tofu recipe. I’m talking about the other great pillar of cheap-and-easy Sichuan cuisine: dan dan noodles.
To make the roasted chile oil, just toast a handful of whole Chinese chiles (or if you want, red pepper flakes) in a dry skillet until fragrant and ever-so-slightly smoking (about 30 seconds). Transfer them to a Noodle food reviews|https://noodleinsight.com/ processor with a cup of neutral oil, like canola, and whiz the whole thing up. Let it sit in a sealed container in the fridge for a week or so, and you’re good to go. You can even top up the jar with more oil and toasted chiles every time you seem to be running low. Make some, have it on hand at all times, and it will revolutionize your mapo tofu, ramen, dumplings, stir-fries, and countless other dishes.
Chinkiang vinegar is a black vinegar that can be found in most Chinese grocers or online. When shopping for chili oil, look for a brand that contains chile sediment in the bottle, such as the Chiu Chow Chili Oil from Lee Kum Kee, or make your own. Fermented chili broad bean paste can be found in most Chinese grocers or online. Either preserved Sichuan mustard root (zhacai) or stems (yacai) can be used for this recipe. They are available in many Asian grocers in either bulk sections or canned, or online. Shaoxing wine can be found in most supermarkets. If unavailable, use dry sherry in its place.
Cumin lamb falls into a wholly different category, however. Given that it’s slightly rich, has that wonderful cumin spice yet remains quasi-delicate on the palate, there are countless great pairings for this dish. Anything from S. Rhone/Languedoc stuff, to Cornas, to Loire Cab Franc, to Sangiovese, to Nebbiolo, to Burgundy… there are so many choices. Favorites of mine include the Cab Francs from Baudry (A bargain!), Montevertine “Pian de Ciampolo” from Tuscany, older Bordeaux (mostly left bank or Pomerol) and also the wines of Leon Barral. The Barral wines are magic.”— Collin Casey, Namu Gaji (San Francisco)



